Soho Sunday.

We had a day up in London on Sunday to celebrate my good news, although the driving was a nightmare - blocked roads and one way streets making a maze out of a city I used to know like the back of my hand.

We were headed for Soho for coffee and cakes at Maison Bertaux;

A Soho institution from the days when this was 'The French Quartier';

It's fair to say that the coffee is better at Caffé Nero, the cakes are nicer elsewhere too and more or less anywhere would be cheaper but this is Maison Bertaux on a sunny Soho Sunday morning;

There's nothing quite like a Sunday morning in Soho.

Maison Bertaux opened in 1871, the year The Paris Commune was drowned in blood - the first time socialism was established in Europe.

When the right-wing dictatorship took back control of the city, thousands were killed and some 100,000 refugees fled to Britain.

Many came to live in Soho and brought their distinctive businesses, language and style to the district.

While Soho became the centre for Gangsters, Pornography and Prostitution, the French flavour of the district lived on well into my day.

When we finished, we wandered around the 'Three Streets' of Soho, just strolling and enjoying the buskers;

We checked out some of the little shops - like this one which has every kind of tea and coffee (including Kopi Luwak which is the one that's passed through the tummy of a wild cat first, left side, third row down);

I loved Soho when it was wild and dangerous and now it's respectable and safe with it's advertising Agencies, the Film industry and the Music bizz.

It's not the same.

There is still some graffiti;

But it's a bit deceptive - this graffiti was at a production unit and was designed to discourage anyone else 'Tagging' the wall;

There was a whole wall dedicated to The Krays, 1960's gangsters who fought with the rival Richardson family for control of the clubs of Soho;

They liked their cups of tea, did the Krays and the Flamingos are a nod to the club of that name.

We both know where the cream cake came from, don't we?

Neil Harris
(a don't stop till you drop production)
Home: helpmesortoutstpeters.blogspot.com
Contact me: neilwithpromisestokeep@gmail.com

A trip to London.

We had a treat!

Well, it was a grim week, we had to get out.

I'm not going to tell you what we did till tomorrow because I've got to wait for Robyn to send me her pictures but we had to go up to London;

We got off at Piccadilly Circus to walk up Regent Street and look at the Christmas lights and nose into the expensive shops along the way.

People were wearing Christmas pullovers and hats, there were office parties looking slightly embarrassed and lots of happy shoppers.

There was a photo shoot - hey it's London!

And I absolutely had to go to Carnaby Street which always has the best lights;

I wonder who this old MOD is in his Parka?

I was here in the 1960's and it was shabby and full of Hippy tat.

It's more cool these days even if it is a bit corporate;

We couldn't get a picture but there were three shops in a row that just sum me up - Levi's jeans, Ben Sherman shirts and Dr Martens shoes - that's all my shopping sorted out;



It's become a home for us MODS, which I don't think it ever really was in the old days. It certainly wasn't when I was young;

Then we went to Liberty's which has to be just the nicest shop in London, even if it's outrageously expensive.

It's a huge shame that the private venture capital company that now owns it has done away with the bay windows which used to be filled with the most wonderful displays but they still have the florist at the front door;

And a grand display in the atrium;

It's a product of the 19th century 'Arts and Crafts' movement which is not my thing but it's a fairy tale at Christmas.

Also it reminds me of 'The Slaviansky Bazaar' which was a Czarist era restaurant in Moscow which survived in all its glory until the Yeltsin age when it was burnt down in an argument between rival gangsters;

There were lots of decorations wherever we went;

And a quick visit to the most impressive pub in London - 'The Argyll Arms on Argyll street;

It was built as a convenient bar near 'The London Palladium' and it has a truly theatrical interior with private little drinking areas and ornate ceilings and glasswork.



No time for a drink though, we were short of time - we had an urgent appointment.

We still had time to take in Oxford Street, Robyn's bank and a walk through Soho though.

Oh, we also had a Burger King which Robyn really enjoyed;

 

                                           

Then we had to get off we had an appointment........more of that tomorrow.

I had a tough week, feeling fairly ill most of the time but today I was feeling good.

If I tell you that after our busy day and our exciting evening we went Christmas shopping at midnight you'll get an idea.

I think I'm paying for it now!

Neil Harris
(a don't stop till you drop production)

Home: helpmesortoutstpeters.blogspot.com
Contact me: neilwithpromisestokeep@gmail.com

Steve Cole and Chuck Loeb at the Pizza Express; A Sunday kinda groove..

This was where we were heading - the Pizza Express on Dean Street, which has a Jazz venue downstairs in the basement.

I ought to love that; it's a basement in Soho and they play live Jazz - what's not to like for goodness sake?

Except that it's not really my scene - expensive, safe, risk free. It's a venue for expense account sharks and advertising executives.

Grrrrrrh!

We were there to see Steve Cole who was over from the States playing with Chuck Loeb.

Cole is Robyn's all time favourite sax player and whatever excuse I came up with, this was something I couldn't get out of!

Worst of all, this was dragging me (screaming and grumbling) into the world of 'Smooth Jazz', which is somewhere on the hazy border between Jazz and (Gulp!) 'Easy Listening'.

This is not my kind of music at all.

So, after some time spent grumbling over the outrageous prices in Pizza Express I settled back to listen and then I realised that the best thing I could do would be to get Robyn G. May write a guest review for me.

After all, Robyn spent time working on a (gulp!) 'Smooth Jazz' radio station in Philly.

Here's Robyn's take on the show;

It’s Friday, and you know what that means, free Smooth Jazz concert on the waterfront. This week’s artist is Steve Cole, never heard of him.

Well, the station promoted the concert all day and I realized he played a few songs I liked. After work I rushed to meet some friends and we went to the waterfront (Penn’s Landing – Philadelphia), Steve Cole had just been announced and the audience was singing “Happy Birthday” to him. We managed to get a good spot despite arriving late (a perk of being a station intern).

The music was jamming! Steve Cole is a very entertaining musician, not just talented but funny as well. He played a few playful tunes, then he told a story about going down south with some college friends and took us to church playing a very soulful tune with Gospel influences. Steve’s music put me in a daze for about 15 minutes. I was hooked! From that day forward I was a fan.

I was seriously ill the following year so I missed him, but I watched the performance on TV.

I saw him on Penn’s Landing one other time, a few years later. I rushed down there after work and what happened? It stormed so the show was cut short. But as he ran off stage and away from the electrical equipment the crowd sang “Happy Birthday” to him again.

Two years ago I got an email that he’d be performing in New York, Long Island to be exact. Now Long Island is five hours away from Philly, but I bought a ticket anyway. This time I took my mom along and we headed out on a road trip to Long Island. The concert was at a vineyard, I was in heaven! Steve Cole accompanied by guitarist Matt Marshak playing at a winery (if you know me you know I love wine). It was a lovely atmosphere, a bit of a crowd but both musicians were full of energy and we had great seats. And at the end I got his autograph!

So a few months ago I get an email that he would be coming to London.

I’m there!

Now, while I adore his music I know it’s not Neil’s cup of tea. I like to keep it mellow, and while a lot of Steve’s music is grooving, jamming, make you want to dance up tempo, there are some very smooth, sexy, get you in the mood songs as well.

And well Neil, he’s a rocker! He doesn’t like to be soothed. But he loves me so we went.

He played alongside Chuck Loeb and Oli Silk, names I know and songs I recognize but I was there for Steve. The stage was small, and I wondered how the heck he would manage. He’s quite an energetic musician, he bounces around, dances and grooves along to the music. You can tell he really loves what he does. My only complaint is that there wasn’t enough of him. He played songs from his last two albums (True and Pulse) and he played some covers with Chuck Loeb. I missed the older songs especially my favorites “When I Think of You” and “Where the Night Begins” (the latter I doubt he ever plays live, but it lives up to the title).

After an encore of Cannonball Adderley’s “Mercy, Mercy, Mercy”, the pair left the stage to sign autographs. Unfortunately, I had to explain that I already had an autographed copy of the most recent CD so I got this instead;

 

Wow! I have to admit, this ranks up there with meeting my favorite actor (Alan Rickman), meeting my favorite baseball player (Andres Galarraga) and seeing my younger cousin play an NBA game. Great show, awesome experience. I was hoping I had converted Neil the rocker, but…….

 

 

 Well, I certainly went in there with plenty of prejudices and some of them turned out to be right!

It's an expensive venue and the audience were what you would expect at a place like that - prosperous middle aged people who didn't want to be threatened.

And before I went I'd have guessed that 'Smooth Jazz' would be the kind of music that wouldn't threaten a senior executive or a line manager on his day off.

Steve Cole was pretty good;

 

 

I see why Robyn rates him so highly - he's just class and for me? Well I could see the sheer quality of hearing a real live American saxophonist - there is a difference.

And for something called Smooth Jazz, it got quite hot up there at times;

 

 

 Chuck Loeb is a very fine guitarist;
 

 

And while Oli Silk was great on keyboards, Andrew Small (drums) Julian Crompton (bass) were fine, this really was the Steve and Chuck show.

I don't think I'll ever get carried away by 'Smooth Jazz' - I've got too many rough edges for that.

But there was some crossover - Steve Cole played his composition 'Curtis' which he introduced as 'a Sunday kinda groove'......which it was.

And Chuck Loeb talked about a recent meal with Cleethorpes very own Rod Temperten (Heatwave and writer for Michael Jackson) which got him playing 'Rock with me', and that certainly got through to me.

So yes, when they grooved I got it.

When they were smooth I wandered a bit.

And nothing is ever going to compare with watching Lang Galloway from the front row sitting with all the premier league footballers.

But I was glad I went.

Now I need something with just a bit more bite, a bit more danger!

Neil Harris
(a don't stop till you drop production)

Home:  helpmesortoutstpeters.blogspot.com

Contact me:  neilwithpromisestokeep@gmail.com

 

My Soho.

Sunday - we went up to town again! We were going up to catch some music but because I couldn't face the tube and as it was a Sunday I drove up.

It worked out well, I found somewhere to park in Fitzrovia;

 

 And we were there far too early, so I forced Robyn to let me take her for a walk round Soho and Chinatown, some of my old haunts.

 

Who can resist Ronnies?

 

 

Well, these days I can. Ronnie Scott is long gone as is his business partner who sold up a few years ago. It was never cheap but it had integrity and great sounds.

Now it's a little too expensive and a little too showbiz for me.

They redecorated for goodness sake!

May be I'll pop in again if I can ever get tickets to something good.

We walked by Soho square and up and down the three streets of Soho. It's a very respectable place now - gone is that definite hint of menace the old place had.

I tried to work out where 'The Marquee' had been on Wardour Street. That was where I saw 'The Jam' and a host of Punk bands and where, if it was a good night, the sweat condensed on the ceiling and dripped back down on the audience.

It was always a good night with 'The Jam'.

Gone too are the Soho characters - not that they were all that nice, most of them.

Here's 'The Coach and Horses', lovingly called 'Norman's' by the new owners.

Nobody ever loved 'Norman' who was the landlord for many years and was titled 'The Rudest Landlord in London' by the satirical magazine 'Private Eye', which is written just a little further along Greek Street.

The pub was for many years the spiritual home of Jeffrey Bernard who was a journalist rather prone to drinking too much and who adopted as the name of his column the apology that had so often taken the place of his usual articles; 'Jeffrey Bernard is unwell'.

That was never my scene although next door is though. That's my kind of place, what you could call 'history on a plate';

'Maison Bertaux' is a family owned French Patisserie and tea rooms and rather proudly states that it was established in 1871.

Soho was always the home of refugees and revolutionaries - Karl Marx lived here after he escaped from persecution in his native Germany.

As the French were defeated in the Franco-Prussian war of 1870, the workers of Paris refused to surrender, even after the French Army and government had ran away.

They defended Paris against the Germans in a long siege, during which time they set up a primitive socialist system in the city.

This alarmed the German government as much as the French and they co-operated to put down the rising.

Over 30,000 Communards were brutally murdered or transported to penal colonies for the cheek of wanting democracy.

Over 70,000 came to Britain as refugees, many settling in Soho. They are responsible for its slightly riskeé, slightly bohemian atmosphere.

The Coach and Horses which was built in 1850, was never known as 'Norman's' but always as 'The French', because like many Soho businesses it had had a French landlord for many years.

'Maison Berteaux' is now the last remaining link to the escaping Communards.

We were there the day after 'Pride', the Gay festival and carnival, which had a special meaning this year after the U.S. Supreme court upheld the right to have 'same sex' marriages anywhere in America.

It's a huge victory and a really big deal because other countries will follow on as well.

There must have been some big, big celebrations the night before.

The flags were still out;

And rainbow banners and balloons everywhere.

These days Pride is huge and it has respectable sponsors.

Everyone wants to be associated with it - banks, shops, even brands.

It wasn't always like that - in the 1970's Pride wasn't a carnival - it was a protest march and it took real courage to come out and take part.

Sometimes the march would be attacked, it always faced hostility from the authorities and the police.

I attended three times from 1978 to 1980 - appeals had gone out for people to join the march and face off attackers and I was happy to do that.

Now I am really proud that I did, not because Gay people ever really needed any physical protection, they were always able to look after themselves but in the 1970's they needed a bit of moral support.

As I said, they were making a very courageous stand back then and I share their pride in what they achieved; they changed the world just a little.

It hasn't been an easy road, this is 'The Admiral Duncan' pub.



In the 1980's, as a prominent Gay pub, it was part of a long struggle with conservative Westminster council who declared that the rainbow flag was 'advertising' and required planning permission before it could be flown.

Legal battles and demonstrations followed and with the backing of Ken Livingstone's radical Labour Greater London Council, the Tories of Westminster council eventually had to give in.

So strange to see Tory politicians like Boris Johnson falling over themselves to court the pink vote these days.

'The Admiral Duncan' is even more important to Soho - in 1999 a crazed right wing nutter (it's official - he's in Broadmoor hospital with the criminally insane now) launched a bombing campaign in London, targeting Black, Asian and Gay targets.

The Admiral Duncan was blown up killing three people and injuring 70.

They've won the right to fly their flag many times over.

Following that atrocity, the Metropolitan Police who had persecuted the gay community for many years, set up a mobile incident room outside the pub to take witness statements and staffed only by gay and lesbian officers.

Change comes!

And so today you see little signs like this one outside the Firestation;

 

 

 

Which just goes to show how you can change the world....if you want to.

 

Music review tomorrow!

 

 

Neil Harris

(a don't stop till you drop production)

 

Home:  helpmesortoutstpeters.blogspot.com

 

Contact me: neilwithpromisestokeep@gmail.com